Operations
01 April 2022
Meet the company behind reusable packaging for Rent the Runway, Walmart and more
Returnity CEO Mike Newman talks about the company's systems-based approach to sustainable packaging.
Returnity CEO Mike Newman talks about the company's systems-based approach to sustainable packaging.
In 2020, more than 20 billion parcels were delivered in the US.
It was a 37% increase over the prior year, according to Pitney Bowes, and spoke to the explosion of ecommerce that took place that year.
It also meant a lot of cardboard was being shipped.
“It’s enough cardboard to pave a road from New York to LA and back a mile wide three times a year,” said Mike Newman.
Increasingly, finding ways to reduce that amount of cardboard is on the mind of retailers and consumer brands. Calls for change are growing louder from consumers and governments, leading many brands and CPGs to set sustainability goals to reduce consumption. Single-use packaging is a key focus area. At ShopTalk this week in Las Vegas, both sustainability and resale were on the mind of conference organizers, investors and speakers.
Newman was among those from the latter group. He's the CEO of Returnity, a Brooklyn, New York-based company working with companies to develop reusable shipping and delivery packaging systems. By the third quarter, the company will be displacing over two million cardboard packages a month. It recently raised $3.1 million in seed funding from investors including Brand Foundry Ventures and the retail tech and consumer goods-focused VC and accelerator XRC Labs.
To this point, the company has evolved from a single-product focus to a systems mindset. The company started as a “happy accident” after ThredUP founder and CEO James Rheinhart asked to create a reusable shipping bag, and became the first investor in the concept. It ended up being a promising enough idea to start a company around, and about five years ago Returnity was officially launched.
As with most startups, it wasn't a straight line to get to the right model. After struggling with uptake of a single reusable bag product, the company now works alongside large companies to develop reusable packaging that works best for them.
“We realized that packaging is really about systems first and the product second, and not the other way around,” Newman said in an interview with The Current. “With reuse and sustainability, you have to be conscious of and working towards an effective system to derive the kinds of benefits that reuse can create, and not just get excited about a thing that you make in the lab.”
In practice, this means Returnity works alongside companies to understand how their shipping and packaging operations work, and determine where reuse can play a role. Businesses have economic and environmental goals in mind, and Returnity takes a collaborative approach to meeting them.
“Our job at Returnity is to help retailers figure out where in their business reuse can happen in a way that will meet those requirements,” Newman said.
It has led to a variety of new solutions.
The Rent the Runway garment bag (Courtesy photo)
Working with fashion rental company Rent the Runway, it developed the reusable garment bags that are now core to the brand’s identity. These made reuse part of the company’s sharing economy model. It underscores a use case with rental services, in which items can be returned in the same packaging in which they were delivered.
After winning Walmart’s Beyond the Bag challenge in 2020, the company developed packaging for grocery delivery. The teams identified how packaging could be picked up every week as groceries arrived.
Returnity developed a reusable shampoo bottle for Aveda (Courtesy iamge)
With Estee Lauder-owned haircare company Aveda, it developed a reusable shampoo bottle. With New Balance, it created a reusable box that is used to sample products. At Happy Returns, a Returnity-developed box allows for exchanges and returns of ecommerce items at drop-off points, without printing or packaging.
Returnity developed a box for New Balance. (Courtesy photo)
Returnity also works with DTC brands, which value packaging that is often both unique for consumers and sustainability-minded. In 2021, Returnity worked with zero-waste mascara brand Izzy to launch steel mascara tubes designed for 10,000 refills. Subscription-based companies are also a good fit.
In each company it works with, Returnity takes a consultative approach. Often, companies want to solve the hardest problems first, and usually that’s replacing the single-order ecommerce purchase. But that’s a big challenge when it comes to designing a system. Not only do returns of these items have less predictability and lower frequency, but a successful reuse program would require 95% of consumers to participate, and getting 95% uptake of anything is difficult.
“We tell brands, let’s start with your easiest problem,” Newman said. “Let’s build from a platform of success.”
It may be a key lesson for any company looking to implement sustainable practices: Start where you can make impact today, and build toward the bigger wins.
After working through the system comes developing the packaging product itself. It has to be the right size to hold the proper amount of product, and have the right branding. The company is also constantly experimenting with materials. A current pilot with GoreTex may lead to a form of reuse in and of itself, as it is developing material from fabric that would otherwise be going to landfill.
"We are always trying to find the right durability, cost, material and impact balance," Newman said.
Returnity is now in growth mode. Revenue tripled from last year’s total in the first quarter of 2022 alone, and it is hiring. Expect to see more types of unique reuse solutions from brands in the future.
“We now are in pilot with the next wave of omnichannel retailers that we know is going to continue this aggressive expansion,” said Newman.
"Fashion ecommerce is one of the most cumbersome customer experiences that exists," said Rent the Runway CEO Jennifer Hyman.
The rise of generative AI is bringing with it a groundswell of interest and concern about how the capability to automatically synthesize information and create something new will change how we work.
Given that AI will sit within the architecture of our digital lives, it’s also worth considering how the technology will introduce new tools for other aspects of life, as well.
For two ecommerce innovators in the apparel space, it’s a time to explore how it will transform shopping. Rent the Runway is set to roll out new AI-powered search capabilities, while Stitch Fix is drawing on a long history with data science and machine learning to personalize the inventory buying process.
Here’s a look at the initiatives underway at each company, and their visions for the future:
Rent the Runway is putting a focus on the customer experience this year as it seeks to retain more subscribers and continue a yearslong push toward profitability.
This is resulting in the introduction of a variety of new initiatives, from the addition of an extra item to all orders to speeding up page load times. Yet as CEO Jennifer Hyman zooms out, she sees change being necessary on an industry-wide level in fashion. Beyond adding new features, AI can play a transformational role.
“I think that fashion ecommerce is one of the most cumbersome customer experiences that exists. You are searching through pages and pages and pages of content to find the items that you like and no one likes doing this,” Hyman told analysts on the company’s earnings call this week. “As an industry that still is selling physical products, AI is going to be -- fashion is going to be a major beneficiary as an industry.”
As a rental service, Rent the Runway has a distinct niche in fashion that lends itself to AI’s advantages, Hyman said. As opposed to a retailer that a consumer may visit a couple of times a year, RTR is used frequently by customers. So Hyman said there are opportunities to turn Rent the Runway into a “utility” by creating a more seamless experience.
This frequent use also provides a “highly unique” dataset, Hyman said. They know what a customer is planning to do based on what they rented. They know whether she liked or disliked an item, and many customers are reviewing 10 items per month. They know her size and how an item fits. This can be put to work in tools that allow customers to ask questions, and find answers.
The first application that combines AI and these advantages will appear in the coming weeks, when Rent the Runway plans to launch a beta of AI-driven search. The tool will allow customers to search for common terms or use cases for an item. So a person will be able to write “Miami vibe,” “‘clambake in Nantucket,” or “tropical motifs,” and receive results about what to wear for such an occasion.
The goal is to help customers sift through the endless aisle, and instantly finds what's right for them.
“I think that across all fashion sites, all over the world, the way that people are searching for product is fairly vanilla, it's fairly functional, right?" Hyman said. "You can go to a site and search for a T-shirt, you can go to a site and search for a black-tie gown. The fact that we're going to be able to enable our customers to search how they actually want to use this closet in the cloud, to search for items to wear to my beach bonfire this weekend, that is a completely different way to search, and I think that it really brings out the value proposition of what a closet in the cloud is all about."
Hyman sees this as a first step in the company using AI models to improve the product experience, and expects more tools to appear in the coming months. RTR is also introducing an SMS concierge experience for onboarding that allows customers to text with a member of the customer service team. The company is already exploring ways that AI can be incorporated into that tool, as well.
In the longer term, Hyman said the company has a vision that will leverage AI to allow customers to communicate with Rent the Runway asynchronously across different modalities, and have a stylist that is constantly available to recommend items, pick out new inventory and answer questions.
“If we are utilizing AI appropriately over the next few years, I see no reason why someone even has to come to our website,” Hyman said.
Stitch Fix has long married AI with human curation to provide outfits on a subscription basis.
“For years, we have utilized capabilities in generative AI, injecting scores and language into our personalization engines and, more recently, automatically generated product descriptions,” CEO Katrina Lake told analysts. “We have also developed and implemented more advanced proprietary tools such as outfit generation and personalized style recommendations that create a unique and exciting experience we believe is unmatched in the market.”
A new area where the company is applying AI is inventory buying.
“We have historically utilized a number of tools to make data-informed decisions with our inventory purchases,” Lake said. “Now, directly leveraging our personalization algorithms, we have developed a new tool that creates an exciting paradigm shift, which will utilize math scores at the client level to drive company-level buying actions. We expect the clarity of demand signals at the individual client level to drive more proactive and efficient inventory decisions as a company. And because of this, we expect to see higher success rates on fixes and drive increases in keep rates and [average order value] over time.”
Early results are promising. When compared with existing buying tools, testing showed a 10% lift in keep rate and AOV. By the end of this quarter, Stitch Fix expects 20% of all purchase orders to be algorithmically informed.
With experience using AI and a team in place to build, Stitch Fix is investing in the technology. Like Rent the Runway, it also has a unique dataset that offers an immediate advantage.
Here are Lake’s thoughts about how Stitch Fix’s AI strategy:
One of the things that I love about our experience is that we have generative AI that's really in more of a visual format. And so, the outfits that we have in our app, those are actually taking into account your preferences, what we know about you, and then in combination with what we know that you own in your closet. And to be able to kind of continue to push that technology and to be able to continue to give people more value in their experience with Stitch Fix, that's a really good example of, I think, a capability that is, firstly, really aligned with our capabilities around data and personalization and really unique to us.
And then I think it's also really compelling because I really think that pushes us as we think about what that addressable market is. I think if we can push outfits to be something that can be an asset to everybody, I think that is a universal thing that people would love to be able to have, is to have access to advice on a daily basis around what to wear and how to wear it.
While these are distinct companies, their plans lead us to a common conclusion: While the talk around generative AI might be new, many technology-forward companies already have assets sitting inside them that can be leveraged to build new tools. Uncover what’s already there, learn about the AI’s capabilities and develop a solution that's right for your organization. Then, talk to customers to determine how to improve it. It might mean commerce looks different, but that’s okay. The point is to create a better experience.